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Thread: Headphones & Audio Devices

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    Detective Fox Mulder Fadaar's Avatar
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    Headphones & Audio Devices

    Was looking around for ways to improve sound quality for my PC headsets and came across some posts elsewhere about headphone amps. Does anyone have a recommendation for one that'll work well for me? Headset has two normal 3.5mm plugs for both the mic and headphones. I do have a sound card that has an optical out, so I can use that for output and have the microphone plugged in directly to the sound card if that'll net me the best quality. Or can do everything through USB, not really sure what the best option is.

    Thanks!

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    Without knowing the following, it's impossible to provide a decent recommendation:
    1) What headphones are you using?
    2) You said you have a sound card... which one is it?
    3) What type of music do you listen to? (or is this for gaming?)
    4) How much are you looking to spend?

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    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    I will go a bit further. If you have a crappy pair of headphones, don't bother buying a good source and/or amp. Nothing will make your headphones better.

    Headphone amps generally don't offer "better" sound quality unless you have a good source. If your sound card is crap, no headphone amp will make the sound better. If you want to use optical out, you will need a digital to analog converter to plug into the amp. If you want to do that, you might as well get a DAC with USB.

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    Detective Fox Mulder Fadaar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desidero View Post
    Without knowing the following, it's impossible to provide a decent recommendation:
    1) What headphones are you using?
    2) You said you have a sound card... which one is it?
    3) What type of music do you listen to? (or is this for gaming?)
    4) How much are you looking to spend?
    1) Amazon.com: Sennheiser G4ME ZERO PC Gaming Headset, White: Computers Accessories
    2) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16829271001
    3) Mostly gaming, but music as well
    4) $100 or less preferably

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    I would say those sennheisers are pretty borderline whether you would really hear much difference with an amp. Its a great gaming headset and destroys the Logitech stuff I'm sure but its also not the $300+ headphones you usually see people start getting amps for.

    Plus I think the amps you will find for 100 will be pretty shit so I would stick with what you have, that's a good card that should have no trouble powering that headset.

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    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadaar View Post
    If you really want to buy an amp, get a Fiio amp/dac device and toss your sound card. PCI sound cards are noisy with all the circuitry in a running computer. The FiiO E07K Andes can be had for about $100. It's a 24 bit dac so it should be decent.

    EDIT: NwAvGuy, an electrical engineer who decided to expose all the snake oils on head-fi, said that he was impressed with the Fiio E7. It is not as good as the O2 design, but a Fiio device is to give best bang for the buck. However, the biggest flaw is that it is only 16 bit. A reintroduction of the amp/dac at 24 bit is most definitely a bargain.
    Last edited by The Dauntless One; 09-28-2014 at 04:21 AM.

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    I use a FiiO E07K Andes as my sound card. Got tired of hearing feedback through the soundcard/onboard. Works really well.
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    Everything is meaningless Vinen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadaar View Post
    Seriously just get a pair of bose headphones. Sennheiser is owned by Nazis.

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    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Janx View Post
    I use a FiiO E07K Andes as my sound card. Got tired of hearing feedback through the soundcard/onboard. Works really well.
    Is there not a non-portable version? I would worry about wearing out the battery in if you leave it plugged in all the time.

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    Registered User Hatorade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vinen View Post
    Seriously just get a pair of bose headphones. Sennheiser is owned by Nazis.
    This shit again? What is it with people and Bose? That said I own a pair of Astro a40s and have a bose sound system for when I am not using them. Bought the Bose system before I learned what was up.

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    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    It's a Vinen post, I assumed he was trolling.

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    Delicious Noodles Noodleface's Avatar
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    Bose sound alright, but mainly they're for rich people to feel smug about the headphones they use. There are a lot better headphones out there than Bose.

    Where's Brahma? He's the certified audiophile of the board.
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    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    Vacuum tube headphone amps are overkill for OP. Overkill for almost anyone, actually.

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    Formerly Kaxmax
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    For Senns like that you're not going to hear a difference with an amp, they're low impedance and made to be driven from a PC. An amp will make them go louder, that's about it. If your headphone out is super noisy (coil whine from fans, static, etc) you could get a small DAC/Amp combo to clean it up, but it's not going to change the way the headphones sound.

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    Scruffy the Janitor brekk's Avatar
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    I use Amazon.com: Sennheiser HD 518 Headphones (Black): Electronics with ASUS Xonar DG 5.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz PCI Interface Sound Card

    They do make a PCI-E version of the soundcard. It's an awesome soundcard for the price if you strictly want to use headphones (as I do, I don't even have speakers hooked up) It has a dedicated headphone amp which can be adjusted based on your impedence.
    ASUS Xonar DGX 5.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz PCI Express x1 Interface Gaming Audio Card

    Also, headsets suck. They markup a ton for the minor addition of a microphone, and also use lower grade drivers for the headphones.


    Dedicated headphones + shitty cheap PC microphone FTW. People are always astonished how good i sound on Vent/TS with such a "shitty" mic. They work great.

    HB-10_01_lrg.jpg
    Last edited by brekk; 09-30-2014 at 12:26 AM.

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    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    Everything below I own or owned at some point. Anything "popular" that is gaming related, I have pretty much tested/returned the crap and dismissed, minus a few exceptions. I am also assuming just gaming, and not music. You want a sound card if you game man. Especially FPS's. Relying on in game positioning and Dolby really is a disadvantage at times. If FPS's aren't your thing...There are great DAC/Amps/Headphone combos. Too many to list really. But if you want that route, just reply.



    Start small and go for bang for the buck. For the love of god avoid Bose, Beats and Razer. Avoid USB headsets period. Avoid USB anything for sound and games unless you are going to go the full gambit and do it correctly.


    Just get this sound card. It's the best bang for the buck right now: Creative Sound Blaster Zx PCIe Gaming Sound Card with High Performance Headphone Amp and Desktop Audio Control Module at Amazon.com

    Your headphones for gaming should always be open unless there is a reason for you to have closed headphones (Better sound-stages generally). It's tough to beat the HD558's cost/quality ratio. They are light on bass, but it's there: Amazon.com: Sennheiser HD 558 Headphones: Electronics

    If you MUST have closed back get the A700X's: Amazon.com: Audio Technica ATH-A700X Headphones: Electronics

    Your mic will be an Antlion: AntLion Audio AntLion Audio


    These three items will give you better sound quality for gaming than any gaming headset out there under 300 bucks. Much better.



    As far as headsets go... For quality, you will want to spend around 400 bucks. Anything less I have found is pretty much cheaply made, bad sound quality junk.


    The Sennheiser Game One. Lacks thumping bass, but it's there. The sound quality is the HD558's: Amazon.com: Sennheiser G4ME ONE PC Gaming Headset, White: Electronics

    If you want a closed back headset go with the MMX 300: Amazon.com: Beyerdynamic MMX300 PC Gaming Premium Digital Headset with Microphone: Electronics

    General rule of thumb and there is no science here, just experience . You do NOT need an amp until you start hitting headphones that cost about 350 bucks.

    Hope this helps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Dauntless One View Post
    If you really want to buy an amp, get a Fiio amp/dac device and toss your sound card. PCI sound cards are noisy with all the circuitry in a running computer. The FiiO E07K Andes can be had for about $100. It's a 24 bit dac so it should be decent.

    EDIT: NwAvGuy, an electrical engineer who decided to expose all the snake oils on head-fi, said that he was impressed with the Fiio E7. It is not as good as the O2 design, but a Fiio device is to give best bang for the buck. However, the biggest flaw is that it is only 16 bit. A reintroduction of the amp/dac at 24 bit is most definitely a bargain.
    amazon says this e11 is the newer/cheaper replacement
    Amazon.com: FiiO E11 Portable Headphone Amplifier - E11: Electronics

    any difference?

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    Beyerdynamic dt990 + a sennheiser single ear headset strapped to the side for the mic is what I use personally. Can't beat the quality for the 200 I paid for it imo. It isn't pretty but it beats spending 200 more for a good headset and has no impact on comfort. No idea why they charge out the ads for a cheap mic on a set of headphones that is otherwise half the price

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    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lanx View Post
    amazon says this e11 is the newer/cheaper replacement
    Amazon.com: FiiO E11 Portable Headphone Amplifier - E11: Electronics

    any difference?
    E11 is old. E07K is new from last year.

    I never used anything from Fiio, I am just giving some suggestions for cheap sources. I personally use the O2/ODAC combo and it drives everything I throw at it.

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    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brahma View Post
    Everything below I own or owned at some point. Anything "popular" that is gaming related, I have pretty much tested/returned the crap and dismissed, minus a few exceptions. I am also assuming just gaming, and not music. You want a sound card if you game man. Especially FPS's. Relying on in game positioning and Dolby really is a disadvantage at times. If FPS's aren't your thing...There are great DAC/Amps/Headphone combos. Too many to list really. But if you want that route, just reply.



    Start small and go for bang for the buck. For the love of god avoid Bose, Beats and Razer. Avoid USB headsets period. Avoid USB anything for sound and games unless you are going to go the full gambit and do it correctly.


    Just get this sound card. It's the best bang for the buck right now: Creative Sound Blaster Zx PCIe Gaming Sound Card with High Performance Headphone Amp and Desktop Audio Control Module at Amazon.com

    Your headphones for gaming should always be open unless there is a reason for you to have closed headphones (Better sound-stages generally). It's tough to beat the HD558's cost/quality ratio. They are light on bass, but it's there: Amazon.com: Sennheiser HD 558 Headphones: Electronics

    If you MUST have closed back get the A700X's: Amazon.com: Audio Technica ATH-A700X Headphones: Electronics

    Your mic will be an Antlion: AntLion Audio AntLion Audio


    These three items will give you better sound quality for gaming than any gaming headset out there under 300 bucks. Much better.



    As far as headsets go... For quality, you will want to spend around 400 bucks. Anything less I have found is pretty much cheaply made, bad sound quality junk.


    The Sennheiser Game One. Lacks thumping bass, but it's there. The sound quality is the HD558's: Amazon.com: Sennheiser G4ME ONE PC Gaming Headset, White: Electronics

    If you want a closed back headset go with the MMX 300: Amazon.com: Beyerdynamic MMX300 PC Gaming Premium Digital Headset with Microphone: Electronics

    General rule of thumb and there is no science here, just experience . You do NOT need an amp until you start hitting headphones that cost about 350 bucks.

    Hope this helps.
    Haha, the ONE headphone I completely despised is the ATH A700. I hated it so much.

    The MMX300 is okay for music. Some people on headfi say they sound like DT880; I disagree with that statement. I felt the sound signature is a bit too fatiguing, and I have only used it a few times since I bought it.

    If I were to buy another headset for gaming with closed back I would get this
    Amazon.com: Sennheiser HMD26-II-600-X3K1 Broadcast Headset, 600 Ohm Impedance, ActiveGard, Dynamic Microphone: Electronics

    Based on the Sennheiser HD25 ii which has really good sound quality and pretty much indestructible.

    I personally avoid PCI based sound cards. The ones I have owned in the past have some sort of ground loop/jitter/noise/feedback/etc. They may have improved them, but I wouldn't know because I have been using USB DACs for years now.

    Btw thanks for the antlion mic. I wished i knew about that way before

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    Aren't the MMX300s just DT770s with a mic? Not that that's a bad thing, I loved the pair of 770s I had.

    Chalk me up as someone who didn't like the A700s either, even though I know they're kings for positional audio. I haven't liked any of the ATs with the winglet headband, I had W1000s also that I didn't care for.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skrala View Post
    Aren't the MMX300s just DT770s with a mic? Not that that's a bad thing, I loved the pair of 770s I had.

    Chalk me up as someone who didn't like the A700s either, even though I know they're kings for positional audio. I haven't liked any of the ATs with the winglet headband, I had W1000s also that I didn't care for.
    ya the dt770s are nice but you get to pay an extra 160 or so for the mic which is pretty outrageous imo.

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    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skrala View Post
    Aren't the MMX300s just DT770s with a mic? Not that that's a bad thing, I loved the pair of 770s I had.
    No. I owned a pair of DT770 80 ohm and 2 Darth byers. They sound nothing alike.

    It's based on the pilot headphone from their professional line, which has nothing to do with the DT770

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    Formerly Kaxmax
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    Interesting, learn something new every day.

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    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Dauntless One View Post
    Haha, the ONE headphone I completely despised is the ATH A700. I hated it so much.

    The MMX300 is okay for music. Some people on headfi say they sound like DT880; I disagree with that statement. I felt the sound signature is a bit too fatiguing, and I have only used it a few times since I bought it.

    If I were to buy another headset for gaming with closed back I would get this
    Amazon.com: Sennheiser HMD26-II-600-X3K1 Broadcast Headset, 600 Ohm Impedance, ActiveGard, Dynamic Microphone: Electronics

    Based on the Sennheiser HD25 ii which has really good sound quality and pretty much indestructible.

    I personally avoid PCI based sound cards. The ones I have owned in the past have some sort of ground loop/jitter/noise/feedback/etc. They may have improved them, but I wouldn't know because I have been using USB DACs for years now.

    Btw thanks for the antlion mic. I wished i knew about that way before
    Heh, the ATH's were comfortable, sounded great, and were great in FPS's for me. I loved em.

    Now the HD26's I despised. Man how did you like those! They were uncomfortable, sounded hollow for lack of a better word, and had piercing highs.

    I always found when I purchased cheap motherboards or power supply, I would hear everything form process starting to a constant hum. Once I went with quality parts I have not had issues whatsoever.

    Quote Originally Posted by Skrala View Post
    Aren't the MMX300s just DT770s with a mic? Not that that's a bad thing, I loved the pair of 770s I had.

    Chalk me up as someone who didn't like the A700s either, even though I know they're kings for positional audio. I haven't liked any of the ATs with the winglet headband, I had W1000s also that I didn't care for.
    Like TDO says...they sound nothing alike.

    The headband I found was light on the head. Too light really. Like the headset was going to fall off.

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    i second the audio technicas on comfort, i have the older version
    Amazon.com: Audio Technica ATH-AD700X Audiophile Headphones: Electronics

    i bought them, maybe 8 years ago? i needed nice comfortable headphones while raiding for 14hours and i needed them open in case my wife talked to me (raiding at the same time)

    i was raid leader also, so i grabbed a
    Amazon.com: Zalman Zm-Mic1 High Sensitivity Headphone Microphone: Electronics

    And clipped it to the side of the headphone wire, since i was raid leader, everyone needed to hear me and i needed to be crystal clear, and i was. the antlion seems to be the best option to get a boom mic on a "real" headset.

    Before getting a real headset, i went through probably 5 "gaming" headphones crappy mics, they all eventually snapped or broke on me (i don't have a big head really, just put them on and off).

    These headphones have lasted this long, with a LONG ass thick wire. and when i mean thick, it is THICK, i must have rolled over this wire 10,000's in 8 years and it's still perfectly shielded. i did have to open up headphones this year, the right speaker wasn't working (wire disconnected) so i had to resolder new wires, but thats after 8 years of abuse. (and way past my raiding prime)

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    One thing anyone who raids needs to remember too is not to get anything with leather earpads cause that shit is just absolutely brutal if you have to wear it for hours lol

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    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brahma View Post
    Heh, the ATH's were comfortable, sounded great, and were great in FPS's for me. I loved em.

    Now the HD26's I despised. Man how did you like those! They were uncomfortable, sounded hollow for lack of a better word, and had piercing highs.

    I always found when I purchased cheap motherboards or power supply, I would hear everything form process starting to a constant hum. Once I went with quality parts I have not had issues whatsoever.



    Like TDO says...they sound nothing alike.

    The headband I found was light on the head. Too light really. Like the headset was going to fall off.
    The hd25 definitely didn't have piercing highs when I last used them. There was actually a little too much bass. I haven't used the hd25 since I got the momentum though. Are you sure you didn't get the studio version? I've got small ears so maybe that's why neither the hd25 nor momentum bothered me in terms of comfort.

    I can nod really hard and the mmx300 won't fall off. Maybe because I got a wide head. I listened to it again and I'm liking it better.

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    Detective Fox Mulder Fadaar's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys, ended up getting a slightly pricier Fiio unit than I had anticipated and I absolutely love it: Amazon.com: FiiO E17 Alpen Portable Headphone Amplifier USB DAC: Electronics. I foresee myself using this thing for a long time to come.

    Only real problem for me now is my headset's plugs for the mic/headphones are only about 6 inches each after they split (entire cord is around 10 feet total) so it's a bit awkward having to set the unit on top of the front of my PC's case and plug the microphone and USB in to the front ports. Would prefer to have the wires go back behind the case, but it's just not possible until I get an adapter and cord to make the microphone plug longer.

  30. #30
    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    What headphones are you using?

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    Detective Fox Mulder Fadaar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brahma View Post
    What headphones are you using?
    Mentioned it in an earlier post, but Sennheiser G4ME ZERO. I saw you mentioned that you really liked the open variant, but I'm absolutely in love with these. Easily the most comfortable headset (or headphones period for that matter) that I've ever worn and an excellent mic on it. I actually got them back in June when my previous headset started to shit the bed (wire on that headset [Corsair 1500] inside the cord broke right next to the in-line volume control/mic mute box, there was no way I could fix it).
    Last edited by Fadaar; 10-01-2014 at 05:23 PM.

  32. #32
    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadaar View Post
    Mentioned it in an earlier post, but Sennheiser G4ME ZERO. I saw you mentioned that you really liked the open variant, but I'm absolutely in love with these. Easily the most comfortable headset (or headphones period for that matter) that I've ever worn and an excellent mic on it. I actually got them back in June when my previous headset started to shit the bed (wire on that headset [Corsair 1500] inside the cord broke right next to the in-line volume control/mic mute box, there was no way I could fix it).
    You my man have made a great decision....


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    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    Bought a pair of Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro(250 ohm) over the weekend. Been enjoying it a lot and it was worth the couple hundred bucks(thanks for lowering the price $30 2 days later...) over the Sennheiser HD595 I was using previously. The best way I can describe it is that a lot of music and sounds are now crisp and better defined. Music that I listen to a lot now feels like the bass is muddy on the HD595. Still not sure if it solved my ripping on explosion/gun blast problem.


    Powering it with the Fiio E11, considering getting an ODAC/O2, but still on the fence if that would reveal anything. I like the coiled cable because I was tired of rolling over my HD595 cord. But the spring in the coiled cable can sometimes drag my amp around. Any suggestions on a way to secure it, aside from just putting something heavy on it? Not sure I want to glue it down.

    Also, question about the E11 itself. I read on NwAvGuy's blog that if you want to get full dynamic range out of the amp, you have to leave you system volume at full. Does this include volume in application like games and media players as well?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Deathwing View Post
    Powering it with the Fiio E11, considering getting an ODAC/O2, but still on the fence if that would reveal anything. I like the coiled cable because I was tired of rolling over my HD595 cord. But the spring in the coiled cable can sometimes drag my amp around. Any suggestions on a way to secure it, aside from just putting something heavy on it? Not sure I want to glue it down.
    Have a place on your desk you wouldn't mind having velcro on? Could do that and still have the amp be moveable.

  35. #35
    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deathwing View Post
    Bought a pair of Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro(250 ohm) over the weekend. Been enjoying it a lot and it was worth the couple hundred bucks(thanks for lowering the price $30 2 days later...) over the Sennheiser HD595 I was using previously. The best way I can describe it is that a lot of music and sounds are now crisp and better defined. Music that I listen to a lot now feels like the bass is muddy on the HD595. Still not sure if it solved my ripping on explosion/gun blast problem.


    Powering it with the Fiio E11, considering getting an ODAC/O2, but still on the fence if that would reveal anything. I like the coiled cable because I was tired of rolling over my HD595 cord. But the spring in the coiled cable can sometimes drag my amp around. Any suggestions on a way to secure it, aside from just putting something heavy on it? Not sure I want to glue it down.

    Also, question about the E11 itself. I read on NwAvGuy's blog that if you want to get full dynamic range out of the amp, you have to leave you system volume at full. Does this include volume in application like games and media players as well?
    Pretty sure any digital volume would bring down the bit rate. I don't suggest you to buy anything if you already enjoy your setup. I would choose the E07K over the O2/ODAC if I were to buy now. It's cheaper and much more portable if I want to use it with my Xperia Z2. I doubt I would hear any difference anyway.

  36. #36
    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    I (mostly)enjoyed the Sennheisers previously too

    Not being able to tinker with system and application sound has always been an annoyance with the E11. I'd consider a different dac/amp just to remove that problem. I really don't want to have to change the volume on the amp.


    Thanks for the velcro idea, Funkor, that should work perfectly.
    Last edited by Deathwing; 10-07-2014 at 12:07 PM.

  37. #37
    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deathwing View Post

    Also, question about the E11 itself. I read on NwAvGuy's blog that if you want to get full dynamic range out of the amp, you have to leave you system volume at full. Does this include volume in application like games and media players as well?
    Keep any digital volume below 80/90%. That's the general rule of thumb. Anything higher you introduce clipping. Use the hardware volume, or whatever is the last in the line of chains for your volume.

  38. #38
    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    Why does that introduce clipping digitally? I can see maybe analog where you're pushing the limits of the hardware.

  39. #39
    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    I don't know WHY it's introduced . I'm hardly that smart. But from what I have read over the years, analog clipping is more forgiving than digital at reasonable volumes. Digital is much more harsh. You want to keep both reasonable, and use the more forgiving analog for the volume adjustments. Definitely with my setup (HD800's WA6) I get much cleaner and crisper sound with lower digital volumes and higher analog.

    Not exactly what we are talking about...

    Clipping - digital versus analogue, and limiting - YouTube
    Last edited by Brahma; 10-07-2014 at 09:30 PM.

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    Megistered Jooserockey Eomer's Avatar
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    Gents, I'm looking to get a good set of headphones. Nothing crazy, or anything. I've been using Sennheiser CX300 II's for most of my music listening the past few years, but figure it's time to upgrade. Primarily the headphones will be used for listening to music from an iPad or cellphone, and just standard MP3's. I'm not an audiophile by any means. Maybe I'll occasionally plug them in to my PC to game with. So I'm not really sure what kind of budget I should be looking at, but it seems like much more than $200-300 would be overkill, right? Let me know what a good set would be, please and thank you.

    Oh and preferably they'll be something that isn't "blingy". I want pretty much the exact opposite of whatever Brahma wears for shoes.

  41. #41
    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    Asking for ampless headphones in the amp thread, you fucking guy...

    Circumaural(open or closed?)? Buds? Neutral response, or favoring a certain range?

  42. #42
    Megistered Jooserockey Eomer's Avatar
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    I did a quick look and didn't see a specific thread for headphones, figured this was just as good! I have no idea on open vs. closed. I'm looking for actual headphones, not buds or canal phones or whatever they're called. I would assume neutral response. I listen to mostly alternative/classic rock, with a smattering of electronic, metal, and pop-ish stuff.

  43. #43
    Registered User Hatorade's Avatar
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    Picked up Amazon.com: ASTRO Gaming MixAmp Pro Kit: Video Games last week, and it is glorious.

  44. #44
    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    Open will allow other to hear your music. Not as you hear it, but they will easily be able to tell and it will be annoying. I like this feature, I prefer the "soundstage" to closed and it allows me to hear stuff around the house.

    I used to have a pair of Sennheiser HD595s. They were low resistance(32 ohm), so perfect for the application you want. I recently got a pair of Beyerdynamic DT990, the 250 ohm model. They made the senns sound muddy, so I was quite happen with my purchase. They make a 32 ohm DT990, that would be my recommendation based purely on what I've used.

    However, if you want neutral, maybe consider the 32 ohm model of the DT880. The 880s have a more neutral response, supposedly(never tried them). I would stress just going to a store and trying them out if you can. I stuck with the 990s because they are open and the 880s are only somewhat open.

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    Megistered Jooserockey Eomer's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips. I'll see if there's a local store that stock them. Seems like the only shit you can find these days is Beats.

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    Registered User galgor's Avatar
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    To be fair, the Beats Solo 2's are getting good reviews--even by audiophiles. They're not open though.

    Other "classic" open headphones: ATH-AD900, AKGK701.

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    Detective Fox Mulder Fadaar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deathwing View Post
    Asking for ampless headphones in the amp thread, you fucking guy...

    Circumaural(open or closed?)? Buds? Neutral response, or favoring a certain range?
    If a mod wants to change the title to be more of a generic headphone/audio advice thread go for it

  48. #48
    Megistered Jooserockey Eomer's Avatar
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    I ended up just ordering the HD598's from Amazon. I spent a few minutes looking around for a local store that stocks good headphones, and all I could find is places chock full of Beats, Monster, and Bose. Basically fashion accessories, not good electronics. I dunno, maybe there's some small independent store I'm not aware of. I couldn't really find a single bad review of them, although some did mention particular weaknesses that I'll probably never notice.

    On the upside, apparently they're 50ohm, so they would see some benefit of an amp if I go all audiophile.

  49. #49
    Survived 9/23/2015 Soygen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadaar View Post
    If a mod wants to change the title to be more of a generic headphone/audio advice thread go for it
    Done.

  50. #50
    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eomer View Post
    I ended up just ordering the HD598's from Amazon. I spent a few minutes looking around for a local store that stocks good headphones, and all I could find is places chock full of Beats, Monster, and Bose. Basically fashion accessories, not good electronics. I dunno, maybe there's some small independent store I'm not aware of. I couldn't really find a single bad review of them, although some did mention particular weaknesses that I'll probably never notice.

    On the upside, apparently they're 50ohm, so they would see some benefit of an amp if I go all audiophile.
    The downside to buying headphones: everyone thinks everything sounds awesome! I spent (lots of)money on this, they're the best headphones ever! Reading head-fi reviews is a good way to induce thoughts of suicide.

    50 ohms shouldn't need an amp.

  51. #51
    Megistered Jooserockey Eomer's Avatar
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    One review just happened to mention that they could see some benefit from an amp, not that they'd need one necessarily.

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    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eomer View Post
    One review just happened to mention that they could see some benefit from an amp, not that they'd need one necessarily.
    An amp will make them sound a bit better. Nothing mind blowing, just a bit crisper all around.

  53. #53
    Registered Dragonlord Deathwing's Avatar
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    Can you explain why? Unless his output has a stupidly high impedence, making its drive strength really low, an amp won't make a difference at that resistance.

  54. #54
    WINS! ShakyJake's Avatar
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    Can anyone recommend headphones that have a built-in microphone amplifier? This isn't for gaming but for work so don't need amazing audio quality. Colleagues are having trouble hearing me with the cheap piece of shit I'm using currently. Adjusting the Windows amplify properties seemingly has no effect so I'd prefer have a mic volume control on the headset itself.

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    I have no clue where to post, did some searches, figured hey, this is an "audio" thread, why not.

    I'm looking at buying a home theater/soundbar system. Wondering what some good ideas would be? I'm going to budget it ~$2-400. So not the most expensive thing, but something that is still pretty good for the price. Basically, doing something like surround sound I don't think is really an option since the area where my tv/ps4 is, it's connected to my living room / kitchen, so it's probably like a 30ft x 30ft room. I'm tempted to try out something like a soundbar but I've heard that a lot of soundbars are really expensive and aren't really that great.

    Basically, there are so many sound systems out there and since I'm not the biggest audio person, I'm pretty much clueless. I see things like...
    Amazon.com: Panasonic SC-XH170 Energy Star 5.1-Channel 1000-Watt DVD Home Theater System: Televisions Video
    Amazon.com: Yamaha YHT-4910UBL 5.1-Channel Home Theater System: Televisions Video

    And think they could be great, but /shrug. RR Bros, help me out!

  56. #56
    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by galgor View Post
    To be fair, the Beats Solo 2's are getting good reviews--even by audiophiles. They're not open though.

    Other "classic" open headphones: ATH-AD900, AKGK701.
    Big consumer brands had to start improving their headphones when Sennheiser, Beyernamics, etc got popular with regular folks (again). I see so many people buying hundreds to thousand dollar custom IEMs nowadays.

    On to my main point, my brother bought me a pair of Bose QC25 and I'm really surprised the headphones are pretty good. I was always on the Bose hate bandwagon, but not anymore. Overall SQ is not as good as my Sennheiser Momentum or Beyer DT880, but the main attraction is the active cancelling tech and it's damn good. It's comfortable and looks sleek (style never hurts :P). Seriously the best AC headphones I've tried.
    Last edited by The Dauntless One; 12-26-2014 at 09:46 AM.

  57. #57
    Registered User Ichu's Avatar
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    Anyone able to help me? I am trying to figure out the best way to set up the sound in the living room.

    I currently have a some logitech z2300's as my TV speakers. The Z2300's just have a single audio jack that plugs into the headphone jack of the TV. Now I have added an old computer to the living room for online content and steam streaming. I really don't want to have to go switch the plug between the TV and the computer whenever I switch from one to the other. Is there splitter that would let me plug both the audio from the computer and the TV into the speakers simultaneously?

  58. #58
    Registered User Jovec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ichu View Post
    Anyone able to help me? I am trying to figure out the best way to set up the sound in the living room.

    I currently have a some logitech z2300's as my TV speakers. The Z2300's just have a single audio jack that plugs into the headphone jack of the TV. Now I have added an old computer to the living room for online content and steam streaming. I really don't want to have to go switch the plug between the TV and the computer whenever I switch from one to the other. Is there splitter that would let me plug both the audio from the computer and the TV into the speakers simultaneously?
    How is the computer connected to the TV? The TV will act like a receiver to manage multiple inputs to a single output (in this case, the Logitech speakers) with the caveat that only one source can be active at once (iow, if you are watching TV, then no sound from the computer).

    If the computer connects via HDMI than that is all you need (cable-wise). You will need to make sure your computer has HDMI audio (basically any IGP or video card in the last 4+ years will be fine) and that the audio source in set to the HDMI device in the "Playback Devices" control panel. You will lose audio if the computer "sleeps" the display though or if the TV is off.

    If the computer connects with VGA then most TVs will have 3.5mm audio-in jack right next to it. In that case you'll need an appropriate standard 3.5mm M-M cable.

    There are other options like a passive/active stereo mixer or take the TV output -> Computer Line-in -> Speakers (computer will need to be always on). And you could always buy new speakers that have multiple inputs.
    Last edited by Jovec; 12-27-2014 at 03:27 AM.

  59. #59
    Registered User Ichu's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help. The computer is connected with a DVI to HDMI cable. The first setup sounds pretty good, I wasn't even aware that was possible!

    Edit: Do I need to buy a DVI -> HDMI converter and then have an HDMI cable for audio to go through? I just have a DVI -> HDMI cable atm.
    Last edited by Ichu; 12-27-2014 at 06:55 PM.

  60. #60
    Registered User Jovec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ichu View Post
    Thanks for the help. The computer is connected with a DVI to HDMI cable. The first setup sounds pretty good, I wasn't even aware that was possible!

    Edit: Do I need to buy a DVI -> HDMI converter and then have an HDMI cable for audio to go through? I just have a DVI -> HDMI cable atm.
    HDMI is the simpliest way to do this, but it seems like you don't have HDMI on your computer.

    Some TVs will have a VGA input (old-school analog monitor cable, likely labeled PC IN) along with a 3.5mm stereo input tied to this input. This would be the next best thing.

    It's possible that the 3.5mm stereo input on the TV can be tied to more than just the VGA in. It might also be tied to a specific HDMI input. In this case, your DVI-HDMI cable would work in conjunction with a 3.5mm stereo cable to carry the audio.

    Using DVI on your computer to a HDMI input on the TV using only a DVI-HDMI cable will not work for audio.

    Link your TV model if you aren't sure.

  61. #61
    Registered User Ichu's Avatar
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    The TV: LG 42LK520: 42 inch 1080p 120Hz LCD TV (42.0" diagonal) | LG USA

    The cable I bought seemed to indicate that it can handle audio: StarTech HDMI to DVI Digital Video Cable, 6ft. at Memory Express


    Would a regular HDMI using this be able to send audio? StarTech HDMI to DVI-D Video Cable Adapter at Memory Express

  62. #62
    Maneater Eater Wuyley's Avatar
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    Anyone got a suggestion for some solid ear buds for working out that will actually stay in your ears and don't go to shit / fray at the audio input without spending crazy money? I read somewhere that certain places can make interchangeable ear buds that are custom fit to your ear (using wax or some shit as a mold). Anyone ever try that as well?

  63. #63
    Registered User Jovec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ichu View Post
    The TV: LG 42LK520: 42 inch 1080p 120Hz LCD TV (42.0" diagonal) | LG USA

    The cable I bought seemed to indicate that it can handle audio: StarTech HDMI to DVI Digital Video Cable, 6ft. at Memory Express


    Would a regular HDMI using this be able to send audio? StarTech HDMI to DVI-D Video Cable Adapter at Memory Express
    DVI just doesn't send audio. Barring HDMI, you need a two cable solution.

    Now, to contradict myself, some GPUs can send audio over DVI with a DVI->HDMI cable, but basically any card that can do this will likely also have standard HDMI. Or to put it another way, there weren't too many cards that passed audio over DVI but somehow don't have a HDMI port, and I've been assuming yours doesn't (else you wouldn't have had issues). The cable must support this (yours appears to) but also your video card. What video card/GPU are you using? You can try using your current DVI-HDMI cable to see if it works. You will need to set the audio playback device on the computer to the correct device (likely labeled something like AMD/NVidia HDMI). If it works, then you are done.



    Inputs.jpg

    This should be your TV's set of rear inputs. You need to plug in a cable like this to the "RGB/DVI Audio In" input on the TV to your speaker output on your computer. You will of course need to set the correct audio source on your computer.

    From the manual, it appears that you can continue to use your DVI->HDMI cable from the computer since the TV will use the "RGB/DVI Audio In" input for sound in conjunction with an HDMI input for video, however it wasn't clear to me if only one or if both HDMI inputs will do this. Most likely, only HDMI 1 will use the 3.5mm audio. So once you have the 3.5mm stereo cable connected, try the DVI->HDMI cable in HDMI 1 first to see if it works. If you currently use HDMI 1 for something else like an game console then you may have to move that to HDMI 2.

    You could also replace the DVI-HDMI cable a VGA D-sub cable plugged into the "RGB IN(PC)" input on the TV. You will still need the 3.5mm stereo cable for audio, but this will free-up an HDMI input if you need it (possibly with slightly lower image quality).

    Again, all this assumes you don't have HDMI output from your computer.
    Last edited by Jovec; 12-28-2014 at 12:38 AM.

  64. #64
    Registered User Ichu's Avatar
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    Haha, so my brother offered me up his old 5850 which has HDMI out. Thanks a ton for really laying all this out though. I really appreciate it

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    I just finished hooking up my new home theater setup. I got a Polk RTi A6 center, A3 front L/R, A1 rear L/R, and Bic PL-200 going through a Yamaha RX-v377. It sounds pretty amazing, and it's a major step up from my old Onkyo HTIB. I really wanted to get a pair of RTi A9's for the fronts, since they dropped to $575 each at Amazon, but I couldn't make them fit without completely re-arranging my entertainment room.

    I want to add an amp into the mix some day, but I have no idea what's good in that department.

  66. #66
    Registered User Jysin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McQueen View Post
    I just finished hooking up my new home theater setup. I got a Polk RTi A6 center, A3 front L/R, A1 rear L/R, and Bic PL-200 going through a Yamaha RX-v377. It sounds pretty amazing, and it's a major step up from my old Onkyo HTIB. I really wanted to get a pair of RTi A9's for the fronts, since they dropped to $575 each at Amazon, but I couldn't make them fit without completely re-arranging my entertainment room.

    I want to add an amp into the mix some day, but I have no idea what's good in that department.
    If you want to keep to "budget" amps, I think Emotiva offers some decently priced amps. There is quite the lengthly thread over at AVS forums about them. Something like the XPA-5 should work for you.

    Amplifiers | Emotiva

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    That looks pretty slick. I'll have to keep my eye on that.

  68. #68
    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    So I wanted to start messing with DAC's and the Creative MB3 software, when compared to soundcards...I snagged the Cambridge Audio Azur and the SMSL Sanskrit.

    Sound Blaster X-Fi MB3 Software Suite - Creative Labs (Software Store)

    Amazon.com: Cambridge Audio Azur DacMagic 100 - Black: Electronics

    Amazon.com: SMSL Sanskrit 24bit192kHz USB DAC Coaxial Optical Decoder (black): Musical Instruments

    Sound quality wise I can not tell the difference between the two DAC's. So guys, remember to spend your money elsewhere on your audio gear. A DAC is a DAC it looks like to me. No idea what a $2000 DAC sounds like...but hey.

    Gaming was the same thing, when it comes to the sound. The Azure plays MUCH nicer with games as far as load times and alt tabbing. Zero delays in either. The SMSL had issues in that regard. BF4 would take about 30 seconds longer to load with the SMSL But there was zero difference sound quality wise.

    Compared to my creative ZXr sound card, I can honestly say that I prefer the DAC's over the soundcard. The DAC's have a much smoother sound when it comes to music It's not even close really. Plus with the DAC located external from my PC case, there is zero electronic interference.

    With games, the Creative software does a great job for positional audio. In games the bass when compared form the soundcard to the DAC/software, the bass from the soundcard is much more exaggerated. That's not a bad thing in games really. I prefer heavy bass in game myself. But some might not.

    I have always been a soundcard is a better solution to gaming over a straight DAC. Even with the software solutions out there like the Razer and the Creative MP3, I preferred the soundcard as long it was higher end. Now I have leaned slightly toward the DAC/Software solution.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Detective Fox Mulder Fadaar's Avatar
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    So if my computer speakers use an optical cable would something like that not be usable?

    Edit: Really old set of Logitech Z680's to be precise. They still sound great considering how old they are (I got them in 2005).

  70. #70
    Registered User Jovec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadaar View Post
    So if my computer speakers use an optical cable would something like that not be usable?

    Edit: Really old set of Logitech Z680's to be precise. They still sound great considering how old they are (I got them in 2005).
    In theory you could take the output from a DAC like Brahma listed and send it to the analog input on your Logi Z680s (I assume they have one). But if your speaker set is already connected via Toslink optical then it has a built-in DAC anyway. These units just decouple the DAC from the amp/speakers and allow you to send digital audio to a different (and presumably better) amp/speaker setup.
    Last edited by Jovec; 03-16-2015 at 01:45 AM.

  71. #71

  72. #72
    Registered User joeboo's Avatar
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    Hey Brahma, since you are one of the resident experts here, would you have any headphone recommendations for mostly gaming(i dont need a mic or anything like that, just purely sound), but some music listening, in the ~$100 price range?(would probably go up to even $150 if theres a HUGE jump in quality between the two price points)

    And if it matters, I'm just using on-board sound with my PC, I don't have a dedicated soundcard or amp or anything fancy like that.
    Last edited by joeboo; 04-08-2015 at 04:29 PM.

  73. #73
    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeboo View Post
    Hey Brahma, since you are one of the resident experts here, would you have any headphone recommendations for mostly gaming(i dont need a mic or anything like that, just purely sound), but some music listening, in the ~$100 price range?(would probably go up to even $150 if theres a HUGE jump in quality between the two price points)

    And if it matters, I'm just using on-board sound with my PC, I don't have a dedicated soundcard or amp or anything fancy like that.
    Gaming...that price. Neither need an amp or anything.

    Amazon.com: Audio Technica ATH-AD700X Audiophile Headphones: Electronics

    The HD598's are better IMO. Little more though.

    Amazon.com: Sennheiser HD 598 Over-Ear Headphones: Electronics

  74. #74
    Registered User joeboo's Avatar
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    Damn those Sennheiser 598s are sexy. Thanks for the links, might have to pull the trigger on those

  75. #75
    Detective Fox Mulder Fadaar's Avatar
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    Headphones are one of those things you're better off spending a few bucks more, a good set should last you many years.

  76. #76
    Survived 9/23/2015 Soygen's Avatar
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    Do the 598s only come in that 70's cream color?

  77. #77
    Obi-Bro-Kenobi-X Brahma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soygen View Post
    Do the 598s only come in that 70's cream color?
    Unfortunately yeah...

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    Registered User Lodi's Avatar
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    Anyone have any suggestions for a good mid-range subwoofer? I have a very old one that I want to connect to my CRT system for retro games but I need to replace it first. I prefer Sony but if any audiophiles have a better suggestion then I'm all ears.

  79. #79
    Registered User galgor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soygen View Post
    Do the 598s only come in that 70's cream color?
    Unless you can find the HD595's, which are basically an older version of the same headphone. They're gray.

  80. #80
    Lurker Rehab Denamian's Avatar
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    I'm doing some traveling in August, and was thinking of getting some noise cancelling headphones for the flight, but I don't know squat about them. Ideally I only want to spend $50-100, but after doing a little research I'm wondering if anything in that price range would be worth it. Since I don't fly much anyway, I was thinking some noise isolating headphones might be a better choice.

    Until I was given some Sennheiser 558s this year, I've always used pretty cheap headphones, so I don't need awesome sound quality. I think I'm still using the earbuds that came with my Galaxy Nexus when I'm traveling right now.

    So I'm looking for recommendations for headphones or earbuds in the $50-100 range, good for flights, noise cancelling or isolating, decent sound quality, and if headphones I would prefer they fold up for easy storage when traveling.

  81. #81
    Scruffy the Janitor brekk's Avatar
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    I had a pair of HD 280 Pro's before I got my open HD 518's. They are closed and designed for a studio environment so they are rated for 32db of attentuation, with them on and nothing playing i could barely hear anything, with music running I wouldn't hear someone being murdered 3 feet away. (for comparison foam ear plugs are usually 32-34db) Well built, can fold up for travel. Headphone cable is not soldered in, it has internal clips so it can be replaced if damaged without resoldering.

    Amazon.com: Sennheiser HD-280 PRO Headphones: Electronics

    Also the new replacement for those the HD 380

    Amazon.com: Sennheiser Collapsible Headphones HD 380 Pro, Black: Musical Instruments

  82. #82
    Lurker Rehab Denamian's Avatar
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    Definitely leaning towards the 380s, though I would probably want to buy a shorter, non coiled cable for them.

  83. #83
    Administrator Draegan's Avatar
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    So my cable for my Senns PC350 is all messed up. An old pet got on to one and chewed through the cord years ago and didn't cut all the way through but exposed some stuff and the right can doesn't work anymore, or it does intermittently.

    I have the replacement cable and the headset, but I'm an idiot and realized I don't have the ability to remove the cable and re-sodder the new ones. (I don't have the know how or the tools)

    You think it's worth sending in these for repair for $82.00 + shipping or just buy a new set of whatever make and model?

    I've had this head set for a while now. Not sure what the good headsets out there. Any opinions?

  84. #84

  85. #85
    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Draegan View Post
    So my cable for my Senns PC350 is all messed up. An old pet got on to one and chewed through the cord years ago and didn't cut all the way through but exposed some stuff and the right can doesn't work anymore, or it does intermittently.

    I have the replacement cable and the headset, but I'm an idiot and realized I don't have the ability to remove the cable and re-sodder the new ones. (I don't have the know how or the tools)

    You think it's worth sending in these for repair for $82.00 + shipping or just buy a new set of whatever make and model?

    I've had this head set for a while now. Not sure what the good headsets out there. Any opinions?
    If you already have the cable and you're willing to buy a new set of phones, try fixing it yourself first. It's really easy, and you can look online for quick tutorials.

  86. #86
    Delicious Noodles Noodleface's Avatar
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    Might not be worth it fixing himself as he'd need to buy a soldering iron/station, solder, flux, etc
    Noodleface#1412 - <Rerolled> US-Hyjal Horde - Noodleface

    Follow me on Twitch! - Streaming Rerolled minivan dad raids Friday nights 9PM EST and Saturday mornings 11AM EST!

  87. #87
    Administrator Draegan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noodlemod View Post
    Might not be worth it fixing himself as he'd need to buy a soldering iron/station, solder, flux, etc
    This. I had originally bought them because I thought I was going to be around my brother in law, but I ended up not seeing him.

  88. #88
    Delicious Noodles Noodleface's Avatar
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    If you're inclined to buy new, you could still buy a cheap soldering station and try to fix them as a backup pair. Soldering is a good skill to have
    Noodleface#1412 - <Rerolled> US-Hyjal Horde - Noodleface

    Follow me on Twitch! - Streaming Rerolled minivan dad raids Friday nights 9PM EST and Saturday mornings 11AM EST!

  89. #89
    Formerly Kaxmax
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    I think the Game One is just a a 558 with a mic, good set of headphones. Everything I've tried in the xx8 series are good, very comfortable.

    I know some guys love the ATs for their positional audio, I would recommend trying a pair on if you can. I have never liked their winglet headbands, ymmv obviously.
    Last edited by Skrala; 05-28-2015 at 12:59 PM.

  90. #90
    Administrator Draegan's Avatar
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    I ended up buying the game ones. I love Senns and they fit perfectly on my head. Why bother risking something different for the sake of something different.

  91. #91
    Registered User Palum's Avatar
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    So my second pair of G930s broke. I have nice studio and portable headphones as well as a wired backup headset but I still need to find a new wireless one. Same failure on the G930 twice, little plate holding in oversized ear piece just shatters because it needs to be billet not stupid plastic. Any suggestions on HQ wireless headset (with mic obviously)?

  92. #92
    Not My Real Name
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    So I have an old AIWA NSX-AV85 stereo system. I've been using it since the late 90s and it's worked wonders hitherto. But yesterday I noticed that sound wasn't coming from the left speaker. After mucking with the wires I found out that there is nothing wrong with the wires or speakers, the problem lies in the left speaker connector in the box. After opening her up and cleaning as best I could it still doesn't work. So I have two questions:

    1. Anyone know any tips for possible fixes or remedies?

    2. If it can't be fixed I'll have to buy a new set. This set lasted almost 20 years, and I hope that whatever I buy will last a good long time too, so quality is important. I'm a semi-audiophile but I can't be arsed with setting up surround sound and shit like that, I just like two good main speakers. Also, I have the stereo wired to my computer with the speakers on each side of my monitors. The stereo is hooked up to my computer and I use it as my sound system, as well as radio/CDs. Anyone have any recommendations of manufacturers and makes? They don't have to look spiffy, just get the job done.

  93. #93
    Registered User gogusrl's Avatar
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    I plan on moving my 5.1 system to the bedroom and getting an amp + 2 speakers for my desktop since I listen to music most of the time.

    What are my options with a 300-400$ budget (for me it's gonna be more like 600$ with taxes & shit). I plan to buy locally but there's so many of them and I've been happy with those Z-5500 for the last 10 years so I'm oblivious about audio stuff.

  94. #94
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    I don't know much about them personally, but a friend of mine who is really into all that shit raves about the Audioengine A5+. They're typically around $400 for the two speakers with their built in amp.

  95. #95
    Detective Fox Mulder Fadaar's Avatar
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    I have the extremely similar G4me Zero's and they're amazing. I'd definitely go for those over the One, leather is so much easier to clean and keep clean. However if you don't want the noise cancelling on the Zero go with the One. It really blocks outside sound so if you have kids or something to keep an eye on probably a bad idea.

  96. #96
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    Has anyone had any experience with bone conduction headphones? They basically seem like magic to me at the moment. I don't need excellent audio quality, my primary driver is wireless for biking. The secondary is that, if this worked, I wouldn't have to do the 'one on one off' strategy of headphones currently. I still like to be somewhat spatially aware. Overall reviews seem positive. Could be a neat toy.

    AfterShokz

  97. #97
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    Just bought a pair of

    Elite 800 Wireless Noise-Cancelling DTS Surround Sound Gaming - Turtle Beach Corporation

    for my PS4. Anyone know any good presets or anything? I've just plugged them in and not done much else.

  98. #98
    Registered User mkopec's Avatar
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    Honestly for PS4 nothing can beat the sony golds considering the price, you can snag them at costco for $60. Totally wireless (can use on PC too), surround, stay charged for 4-5 hours, better surround than my $150 PX4 turtle beech. Overall better sound quality than any turtle beech.

  99. #99
    Registered User Foggy's Avatar
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    Looking for a high quality bluetooth speaker. Recommendations?

  100. #100
    Registered User The Dauntless One's Avatar
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    I've been using the Kanto YU5 speaker which has bluetooth connectivity. It's been pretty good and not very expensive.

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