I've gone wall climbing and I love it. Can't imagine doing it on actual rock (like what he's doing) since I guess my grip just sucks. Really sweet how he went completely horizontal, though.
Last edited by vGrade; 01-22-2013 at 07:34 PM.
I've gone wall climbing and I love it. Can't imagine doing it on actual rock (like what he's doing) since I guess my grip just sucks. Really sweet how he went completely horizontal, though.
I usually only climb in gyms, but a few months ago I got to climb this spot in Hawaii: http://www.unrealhawaii.com/2010/06/...at-waimea-bay/
It was pretty amazing, we had the wall to ourselves and got to watch the biggest waves I've ever seen.
Adam Ondra on-sighting the Golden ticket 5.14d last month. Crux starts at 4:20. Cant believe he skips a quick draw
Man, I fucking love the Red. What's your home crag? We've got some decent stuff down here in Austin, but it just doesn't compare with the perfect, sculpted stone they've got in Ky.
I've been indoor climbing a few times and loved it. I decided I'm going to try out the gym near me (Portland Rock Gym) this Friday. If I like it I'll probably get a membership and start going regularly.
Good to see Loki made the move.
My climbing has suffered in the past 2 years, with basically rebuilding the house and then having a kid. Sucks.
I live in the best area for climbing too... doubles the pain somewhat.
I shall climb more next year.
Last edited by vGrade; 12-13-2012 at 11:27 AM.
Zombie roof Free solo
Ethan Pringle: Wheel of life v16
I was climbing 2-3 times a week at the local gym for about a year before I dislocated a patellar tendon doing something else, and have been lazy while rehabbing it for the last 3 months. I'm hoping to get down to the Red this spring/summer if I can get a solid week or two off at the same time as my belay partner.
Well, this thread pertains to my interest...
I manage a climbing gym in North Carolina, am the head route setter, and coach the climbing team here. Nice to know there are fellow nerds who like rock climbing.
Stone Summit. Atlanta, GA
It's the largest climbing gym in the US. Hosted a IFSC world cup a couple months ago which is the first time it has ever been in the US.
Last edited by vGrade; 12-18-2012 at 02:10 PM.
My local crag. Nothing spectacular, but you use what you're given
Last edited by vGrade; 12-29-2012 at 07:04 AM.
Seattle Bouldering Project.
I'm rehabbing my shoulder currently, but hope to be climbing again within 2 months. Dislocated my shoulder and pinched a nerve pretty bad, then my first day back I mucked up something on the outside of my shoulder. Definitely didn't do enough rehab even though it felt great at the time. I've only been climbing since August, so I'm only a v3 climber trying to get into v4 problems, but I always enjoy the social aspect of climbing with other people, and most everyone I've met at SBP have been awesome people.
SBP is my gym, as well! Look out for me with a brown beard and often wearing either Windows Phone or CubeSat t-shirts, on anything up to v7
SBP grading makes me feel good about my climbing ability. Still, I like that gym.
I'll keep my eyes out for ya, though bearded folks are about half the people there. When I get climbing again I'll shoot you a PM and we can meet up there. I'm always up to meet new folks and climb in a social setting. I feel like I get a lot more done over time, plus picking people's brains for beta isn't something I mind doing.
@ Etwynn - I love the staff at SBP. It seems like such a nice environment compared to Stone Gardens (Only other place I've climbed)
I do these rotations a lot: http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...lRotation.html, http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/...lRotation.html
there's also a bunch of other ones, take a look around for strengthening the rotator cuff if your symptoms sound similar to what I described, it's a pretty common climbing injury from what I can tell.
Cardio is balls right now from my lung cancer, but my oncologist and everyone thinks it's a great idea to try do some extended elliptical/stair-climber where I can keep ~170bpm heartrate. I managed several sets of 50 flights of stairs last night and I'm pretty much done until this weekend.
Good to know that other people have had similar shoulder issues and have managed to get back within a few months. I figure when I can steadily get 5-6 sets of 20 reps without feeling sore the next day, I might try to do some walk-offs to retrain my obliques and get into some of the beginner yoga classes at SBP and back onto some v0 problems. I miss climbing so much, but I just can't jump back in until I'm properly healed. Thanks for the links on the exercises, it helps me realize I'm headed in the right direction.
It is all about reasonable and active recovery from injury. When something feels ok, keep it up, but know your limits. A complete lack of activity like a lot of people seem to do following up an injury is (with exceptions) definitely not the way to go. Glad you are doing better, stick with the yoga, easy problems, and cross train a bit in the meantime. Dude you are hard as nails. Overcoming all this like a boss.
I wish we had a good climbing center around.. My fatass probably couldnt get up the kiddie wall though
The hardest part has been realizing my limits. You definitely don't heal as quickly when you're in your 30's.
From one of my favorite movies Pure.
Wish I coulda climbed with you Austin folks (climbed pretty often at Reimer's, Gus Fruh, ARG), but I'm off to Northern California tomorrow! Anyone up in that area?
Dang there's some crazy climbers out there. I tried out gym climbing as an intro to trad and quickly found out my arms are super prone to tendonitis so no serious climbing for me. I am into mountaineering but mostly just scrambling. I just get to watch and appreciate the pros like Chris Sharma.
Anyone from Boston going to the Dark Horse series this weekend? Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb I know will be there.
The only thing I'm curious about is how they set up those speed record attempts. In all the footage it looks like he is unroped but he has a rope at the summit. Does he have people waiting at certain spots on the mountain to belay him through the sketchier stuff?
World first v17 when it goes down?
Starting to plan out my vacations for the summer. 2 weeks at the Red at the end of May, and another 2-2.5 weeks in Maple in June. Have to get my climbing on before my last year of pharmacy school.
Loving it! Downside is I keep banging my knee against the wall when I have to go horizontal and then jump up to grab another one. ;\
I'm glad we have some climbers on this board. I started climbing last summer and have really gotten into it. Just at gyms so far but I want to get out to Tahoe to do some trad this summer if I can find someone that's got a proper idea of what to do.
Unfortunately I took a bad fall snowboarding and tore my AC, so I'm totally unable to climb for a few months at least. Not being able to climb is absolutely the worst part of the injury.
Anyone here have a good idea of shoes for larger sizes? I wear a 13 US, and finding proper shoes has been a bitch. I've tried looking around on the internet (local shops discriminate against larger sizes by never carrying them) but have not had much luck for anything outside of real basic shoes.
Evolv makes the best entry level shoe at an affordable price. 89 bucks for the Evolv Defy is a really good deal, but besides the defy, I don't recommend Evolv. Their high end shoes are usually really bulky, but for a good all around, economic, gym shoe you can't beat the Defy.
I've heard that Evolvs also can't be resolled, or at least not as many times as other shoes?
In the Seattle area we have an outdoors shop called Second Ascent that does second hand shoes. I found a killer deal on some out of production 5.10s for $50 that looked as though they had been worn 4-5 times. Hell, they've even stretched out a bit since I bought them and I've only been climbing 3-4 times until I hurt my shoulder.
Something like that may be worth looking into for your first pair of shoes since you may not have a solid feel for exactly the type of shoe you want to climb in regularly. I had seriously considered a super low volume shoe, but since I don't climb a lot of overhand (I need to lose a lot more weight first) a good all-around shoe was a better idea for me personally. Make sure you try on a lot of different shoes before you really pick one. I have super small heel cups and low ankle bones, so a lot of men's shoes were painful to wear and my heel would always slip. I ended up in a women's shoe since they're a lot narrower through the heel and generally have a lower cut for the ankle bones.
Adam Ondra just sent La Dura Dura the worlds hardest sport route 5.15.c
Video of them trying it
Last edited by vGrade; 02-07-2013 at 08:24 PM.
That's cool and all, but damn... I'd really hoped that Sharma would send that first. Ondra comes off as such a whiny bitch.
Anyone have some insight on the best way to start building shoulder strength again while getting back into climbing? My PT gave me the all-clear to start, but I'm still fairly sore in a few movement ranges, so I'm a bit hesitant.
This week I started with some nice easy v0 problems and focused on climbing as slowly and methodically as possible. Trying to be aware of foot placement while climbing and downclimbing each problem. I've only been doing 8-10 problems the two days I've been in the gym, but so far it feels pretty decent.
I'm warming up with my regular PT routine - plenty of stretching with a large band, inside/outside rotation with elbow tucked to body, full outside arc with light resistance, low angle dips - then moving on to slightly hanging to assure that the muscles/joint feels good, to a few chin-ups. I'm moving from there to the light climbing.
I'm not sure what I should be doing for cool-down currently, but I'm currently doing a bit more stretching and taking a mild anti-inflammatory.
Are you trying to start building climbing strength through climbing or outside of climbing?
ABS Nationals are being streamed live tonight. LT11.TV 9:30 est
A couple sites for you Mageling with some great advice/training/forums.
Last edited by vGrade; 02-23-2013 at 08:40 PM.
Another site I really like is eveningsends.com it is Andrew Basharat (misspelled) blog he is an editor for rock and ice.
As for warm-up/cool-down: I tend to warm up by doing 5 minutes of cardio (rowing machine if it's available, or sometimes running to the gym counts), then 3 easy to moderately easy climbs where I focus on technique and down climb each one, and lastly, I spend a solid few minutes doing full body static stretches before trying anything more difficult. After that, I tend to climb some more challenging routes, but a few grades below where I plan to project for the day. As for a cool-down, it depends a lot on what my climbing plan for the rest of the week is, but more often than not, I will try to do laps (down climb the route after completing) on a few routes that are a little more difficult than what I warmed up on. If I don't plan to climb for a couple of days, I will usually push myself until I can't climb up the route any longer, for an endurance building exercise. This can work well with a partner, where you switch off climbing the same route, and your only rest period after a lap is while he/she climbs up and down the route, and you both go until you can't climb up to the top of it anymore or can't down climb very much.
The most important thing is to keep climbing, since as I said earlier, it's tough to prepare for climbing without climbing, just try to be aware of your body and don't push yourself until your shoulders stop bothering you (and even then, ease back into trying difficult routes).
I appreciate all of the support and recommendations. These last few weeks have been a lot of learning, that's for sure. I've been focusing on form while up/down climbing mainly v0-v1 problems while either making at least one foot movement per hand hold, or "silent climbing" where if I make any obvious sounds with my feet, I come down and begin over. It's helped me be more aware of keeping from barn-dooring and has been helpful while moving back into v2-v3 problems and regaining some of my strength.
I'll definitely keep up with the PT. I don't see that stopping for some time, and it's a great way to warm my shoulders up as a whole from what I've experienced with climbing after my cardio/PT. My vinyasa yoga instructors at the gym are big on making sure people share any troubles they may have with positions/movements and requests to work on certain areas and help me out with finding movements that accomplish the same task while assuring I'm not overexerting myself.
Overall I'm feeling stronger, but it's hard to not go into the gym every day. I have some free weights that I can do my PT/dips/pushups/stretching at home, but I'm only doing 1-2 days of climbing in a row currently or I end up being a bit too sore the next few days.
I've found myself about where I was climbing difficulty-wise currently where I can flash most v3 problems in my gym, and finally sent my first v4 this last week when they opened up a new top-out boulder after working on it with a small group of people.
I'll try out the rowing machine after my climbing sessions since they have one at the gym, and I live too damn far away to bike/jog home (~15 miles) currently. It's pretty fantastic to see the climbing community here (as small as it is) is just as fantastic as the one at my gym and the few other places I've been in the 4 months of actual climbing that I've done.
All right, the cable on my lat pull machine just broke, and I doubt will get a new one for a few more months till we get the new house. I already do deadlifts and bent over rows, Other than pullups any good suggestions for building the lats.
Last edited by vGrade; 02-26-2013 at 01:35 PM.
I'm thinking that I may be nursing my shoulder a bit much and have in turn managed to start to over-work my elbows. It feels like I have a bit of an overuse problem starting with the tendons on the "inside" of my upper arms, mainly on my right arm (the one I borked up before). I think I just need to take a bit of rest and let things die down a little. I've been climbing and working out pretty hardcore over the few weeks.
About 6 or 7 sessions over 2 years. Hard to get perfect weather in the south.
Vgrade, what problem is that?
I thought that was the shield. Not to be an asshole or anything, but that picture's on the V5 section of the shield, any pictures or videos of the send? Having worked on it, I know that thing gets hella hard after that. I'd be curious to know your beta. Also, what other areas do you climb at in the SE? If you're sending V12, you should come out to to Rumbling Bald in NC! I live in Asheville and would be happy to show you around. There's tons of open projects in the V11+ range.
Other areas I climb in the south are Rocktown GA and Horsepens 40 if friends demand it. I'm not a fan of slopers but I would like to set a crash pad down in front of God Module v11 one day,
74.5 wing span
When I was at about 6 months into climbing I thought I would give this a try...I thought wrong. Plus nets If you know the problem
Last edited by vGrade; 02-27-2013 at 08:37 PM.
Duh, midnight lightning =P.
I did I think I can, right next to reflections on my last trip quickly, but didn't try reflections.
The height thing is one of my favorite aspects of climbnig. I'm pretty short, at 5'6, but that doesn't hurt my ability to climb at all.
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to phen again.
About 3 weeks to go till I hit up Red Rocks for my first crack at multipitches.
Have been doing up and down climbs on easier runs (40ft wall) with my full trad rack on my harness in the gym to prep for it.
Got 16 up and down on a 5.8 and just fell off at the very end I was so exhausted lol.
Also Russian stepping on the lead runs. Don't know if its called that everywhere, but when you climb to the first clip, unclip, climb down the the bottom (but feet stay on the wall). Up to the second clip, unlcip on the way down to the bottom etc.
And people wonder why I say you need a bit of a masochistic streak to be a climber hah.
Last edited by Vodo; 02-28-2013 at 03:16 PM.
Haven't read through the whole thread, but I have been climbing quite a bit the past few years, so I figured I would come add. Live in NH, so have easy access to Rumney, which makes climbing all that more enjoyable. VERY much recommend getting up here to see the place if you haven't.
(Side note - if you haven't used / seen MountainProject site, it's awesome. I'm assuming most of you climbers have been there though).
Also - here's an interesting read about technique: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
That's a very good article. I hadn't really thought about the finger part until recently. Most of the v3-v4 problems I've been climbing at my gym have been super crimpy recently and my ring finger on my left (dominant) hand has been sore to the point where I'm cutting back on climbing and only working open hold problems.
Had my first outdoor bouldering trip to Leavenworth this weekend. Holy damn was that a humbling experience. Primarily stayed in Icicle Creek Canyon and was chewed up and spit out even by a lot of the classics. Climbing on crimpy granite will definitely destroy your hands! I'm making another trip out in June, but this was a great scouting trip. Weather couldn't have been better as well.
Climbing outside for the first time is humbling for anyone primarily because in gyms holds pokes out where outside the holds mostly go in ( at least in the south) like water groves. You have to relearn how to aim. You cant over shoot a hold and fall down on it. The more you go outside the better you will get at it and quick the stronger you are in the gym
I'm excited to make another full weekend trip out there at the beginning and middle of June. My hands are still pretty chewed up, but that'll fade over time. Next on my list is to figure out what I want to buy for a crash pad. My local gym said they're going to start carrying Organic pads, and I've had my eyes on the Organic Big Pad. I used one last weekend and loved it over the other pads we had. I've heard good things about the Flashed Ronin pad as well, but they're super spendy.
Last edited by vGrade; 05-10-2013 at 07:52 PM.
I saw that Jan Hojer training video on my climbing group the other day. Dude is crazy!
I'm down for shoulder surgery within the next couple weeks. Had some shithead walk below me at my gym while I was taking a fall. It's a kids/adult area, so I feared landing on a kiddo. Landed on my shoulder/head and fractured my collarbone, dislocated my AC joint, torn muscles in my rotator cuff, and strained ligaments in my neck. Fucker didn't even stop to see if I was ok.
I ended up missing out on one trip to Leavenworth, and another in a week and a half. Hopefully I can get rehabbed up by spring of next year.
I climbed heaps but haven't done much in the last couple of years.
Mt Araplies and the Grampians where my hang outs in Australia.
Every second weekend i was there.
Best i got was a V10.
Built a bouldering gym in Melbourne for a mate .... http://www.thelacticfactory.com.au/
And have done bugger all climbing since, blew both my elbows out.
Really should get my arse into gear and climb again.
I built this for the fun of it.
Below is not me, just a wanker at the gym.
James Kassay on Wheel of Life. Holy shit is that crazy.
Hoowee look at all the pebble pinchers. Crazy the shit you guys send. I'm a disciple of the wide. Give me a long moderate trad route, or a old run out slab, and I am a happy man. I've been in purgatory for the last 4 years living in Austin, (I need to hit E-rock), after 10 years in Vegas. That southern sandstone sure looks nice though.
Not going to the rendezvous, but I had a chance to climb at Red Rocks for a day this winter and it was awesome. I've been fortunate enough to climb all over the country and my 1 day at red rocks left me feeling like it was one of the better bouldering areas in the country. The rock is so dreamy! I only bouldered while I was there, but the routes looked amazing also.
Just did my first alpine climb. Kicking steps in hard snow up a steep gully to get to the rock climb was pretty sketchy. 12 hour day was exhausting. Climb was easy (I followed). Lots of fun.
Would you rather prefer not to or would you prefer to rather not?
Tore my pectoral major last month. It sounded like a wet towel ripping. I went from bouldering v12 and doing 1 arm pull ups to not being able to unscrew the top off my sons sippy cup over night. Doc says I may never boulder again. Sucks because I had my sights on the ABS nationals this year. To many hard right hand gastons in a 4 hour training session. Fuck injuries. It's not even a common climbing related injury.
Last edited by vGrade; 06-11-2014 at 12:40 PM.
That sucks man.
Sorry to hear about your injury man. Hope there is something fun to take up the time you'll be doing while healing.
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